TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse
He said:
As a breakfast establishment, TRUreligion is open only from 8:00am to 2:00pm (3:00pm on weekends). Service is first-come, first-served, as they do not accept reservations. We arrived at midmorning on a Saturday and only had to wait less than 20 minutes for a table. However, we overheard the hostess telling later-arriving guests that they would have to wait about an hour.
I don’t know why they use an unusual spelling (and capitalization) in their name, but their slogan, “TRUservice is TRUreligion,” speaks to a higher calling than just serving food. They also run a non-profit charitable organization called “Second Chances,” which assists people recovering from “drugs, alcohol, legal issues, financial implosion, and other life challenges.”
Although a large wooden, ornately carved pulpit hangs over the reception kiosk, the restaurant did not resemble a church. The constant din of low music, clanking dishes, and convivial conversation made sure of that. And yet, there was a reverence about the place. I attributed that to the plethora of antiques and historical items they incorporated into the setting. I already mentioned the large wooden pulpit. It came from a Presbyterian church in Denver. A crystal chandelier came from an old mansion. Much of the Art Deco furniture, including booths, tables, chairs, paneling, and even an enormous black glass countertop, all came from Lamb’s Grill in Salt Lake City. Although I had never been to Lamb’s Grill, I felt a part of the love and respect shown in its honored remembrance.
Still, we had come for the food. Although TRUreligion is a pancake and steakhouse, we had neither. I did consider their impressive steak selection. Among the steaks on the menu, TRUreligion offers two versions of a coulotte steak. The coulotte steak, also known as a picanha steak, is one of my favorites, but it isn’t particularly common in the United States. Still, I’m not sold on making steak a part of breakfast, so I passed on those options.
Instead, I ordered their Monte Cristo sandwich. If you don’t already know, the Monte Cristo is an interesting sandwich, a bit unusual perhaps. Super Bowl-winning coach Andy Reid had apparently not heard of the Monte Cristo until he visited the White House a few months ago with the Kansas City Chiefs. He had this to say:
“They did have some good stuff. They had a, I never had this before, a French toast, grilled cheese and ham sandwich that they sprinkled a little bit of powdered sugar on. I mean, it was phenomenal. There was an abundance of this.”1
That’s the Monte Cristo in a nutshell. TRUreligion’s version starts with two inch-thick slices of French Brioche, battered and grilled French toast-style. Inside the sandwich, they add some very fluffy scrambled eggs, then shaved ham that they lightly brown on the grill, and Swiss cheese that stretches with melty-cheesy goodness2. Finally, they sprinkle the sandwich with powdered sugar and serve it with hashbrowns and a berry syrup.
Every bit of my meal tasted great. And, they did not skimp on the portions. Oh yeah, that reminds me. Even the drinks were quite large. We began by ordering diet sodas (for brunch! I know, we’re heathens), which they delivered in a pair of enormous glass steins. I wasn’t sure Kathy would be able to lift hers, but she managed all right.
She said:
I don’t say this very often about restaurants, but for me, personally, TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse is a perfect dining establishment. I actually love everything about it because it successfully combines traditional elements with modern, art deco ones. The juxtaposition between old and new is found in the elaborately and intricately carved, ornate golden-hued wooden pulpit that sits up on the wall behind the hostess’s credenza with the presence of eclectic, multi-colored and multi-patterned geometric tiles on the floor.
It is found in the aged walnut-stained pews that have been crafted into seats and cozy booths that contrast with the sleek, colorful photographs of Utah’s arches and other scenery that hang on the walls. It is also found in the gleaming white subway tiles with their shiny black borders. Despite the possibly incongruous clashing of these elements, it all just works. As a huge proponent and fan of historical preservation, I greatly admire and appreciate TRUreligion’s efforts.
TRUreligion is obviously very popular, judging by the large number of people waiting to get in. Upon checking in, I was told we’d have a 30-minute wait, but we were brought to a table after only 17 minutes.
As I sat in the waiting area, I watched the restaurant’s hostess and servers. They appeared to work seamlessly and like a well-oiled machine, taking everything in stride from cleaning off tables, greeting new customers, and taking people to their seats.
Now, about the food. Oh, my! After contemplating the Matador Omelet, I opted for the Hobo Breakfast on our waiter’s recommendation. Not only were the portions more than generous, my meal was served piping hot and proved to be delicious.
Scrambled eggs, breakfast potatoes, green peppers, and sausage bits were smothered in savory sausage gravy and melted cheddar cheese. Two breakfast sausage links flanked the top of the cast iron skillet in which everything had been prepared and served.
I left so satiated, that I decided against ordering a cinnamon roll to go. It sure was tempting, though! They looked delectable.
Conclusion:
Surround yourself with a bit of local history and plenty of charm while you enjoy a great and abundant breakfast or brunch at TRUreligion Pancake and Steakhouse.
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https://www.si.com/extra-mustard/2023/06/09/andy-reid-white-house-food-exotic-chicken-fingers↩
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I don’t think even the finest Food Critic school could improve on that description.↩