He Said/She Said Reviews logo
Reviewer: Kathy Hill
Score : B+
Reviewer: Brian T. Hill
Score : B
Class :   3.0
Occasion: Weekend Lunch
Total Bill (including tax and tip) : $47.00
Date of Service: Saturday, February 18, 2023

She said:

Brian wanted to go to lunch on a Saturday. I worried that we might run into the 100,000 people who descended on Salt Lake City for the NBA All-Star game. However, it was road construction that caused us to take a longer route. Once we got to the Roots Cafe, I was doubtful we’d get a table due to the long line of people winding outside of the doors and down the walkway. I suggested we leave, but after our effort to get there, I instead worked my way up to the hostess. She informed me it would be a 35-40 minute wait.

What to do? How to while away the time? We decided to browse the neighboring “Old Flamingo” shop. Its inventory consisted of antique furniture, vintage clothing (were those fur coats real?), an eclectic array of jewelry, books, princess lamps, crystal light fixtures, and knickknacks. Brian joked that it looked like a throwback to a 50s teenaged girl’s bedroom. 😉

Anyway, I finally received a text message letting me know that our table was ready. As I approached the counter, I was impressed that the hostess told the waitress, “Here comes Kathy now.” She recognized and remembered me. Nice!

So, I have to admit that when we first got to the café, I wasn’t sure I’d like it. Looking from the outside in, it looked like just one large, open dining room, crowded and with no privacy. Once we were seated, though, I liked it better. The swirly patterned, colorful tabletops, booths, artwork, and live plants in white square ceramic pots secured to the walls with shelfs were interesting and leant character to the room. A first for me: there was no background music, only the chatter from all of the patrons. A note about the artwork: To this Canadian-born gal, the depiction of one creature was confusing because the head resembled a deer's, but the antlers looked more like a moose's rack. Hmm . . .

Now, about the food. Most of it seems to be fresh and local. In fact, the back of a waiter’s sweatshirt said, “Fresh. Local. Creative.” There was definitely a creative twist to the Shepherd’s Pie I ordered. It was made with ground turkey, cubed carrots, diced celery, white corn, and green peas, all topped with creamy mashed potatoes and a side salad. However, instead of a brown gravy in the Shepherd’s Pie mixture, there was a tomato-based sauce. It was delicious because it was so flavorful.

Alas, they didn’t serve any cola, so I ordered a bottle of ginger soda. It was pretty good, but really sweet because it was crafted with cane sugar.

He said:

No diet colas? In fact, no fountain sodas at all. I wonder why that is. Maybe their clientele isn’t interested. No, I can’t suspend my disbelief that much. Perhaps they eschew Coke or Pepsi products because they want only locally sourced products. No. They serve coffee, and I’m pretty sure that doesn’t grow around here. I think it just doesn’t mesh with their vibe. Not so much that they want to “stick it to the man” (at least, I don’t think so . . .), but more that they try to offer a healthy, natural menu. I guess. Kathy didn’t think the cane sugar in her bottled craft soda was healthy, but at least it didn’t have high fructose corn syrup. At any rate, I took instead a house-made Rosemary Limeade. I found the rosemary a bit distracting, though not overwhelming, and the lime not strong enough for my liking.

Roots Cafe definitely has a healthy, natural lifestyle vibe. They also embrace the vibrant Millcreek arts scene, sharing the historic Baldwin Radio Factory building with over a dozen art studios. On their walls hang paintings by local artists, mostly of wildlife, all for sale. The restaurant space is small, which helps explain the many patrons waiting outside. They’ve augmented the space with a heated yurt, and in warmer seasons they also have patio seating.

I ordered the Chili Verde Burrito. They offered it with pork or vegetarian chile verde, and they brought me the latter even though I asked for the meat version. Because it tasted so good, I didn’t mind. The chile verde sauce was thick and velvety. Chunks of zucchini took the place of pork. Spanish rice, black beans, and pepper jack cheese filled the hefty burrito. The dish included avocado and a mixed greens salad topped with a pico de gallo made with fresh red and yellow tomatoes.

Conclusion:

Go to Roots Cafe for a sense of community and good food, healthy and fresh. Expect traditional dishes with a modern, delightfully creative twist. Roots Cafe is open for breakfast and lunch, Wednesdays through Sundays, 7:00 AM to 3:00.