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Napoli's Italian Restaurant

Reviewer: Brian T. Hill
Score : A
Reviewer: Kathy Hill
Score : A
Class :   3.5
Occasion: Weekday Dinner
Total Bill (including tax and tip) :   $96.87
Date of Service: Tuesday, April 9, 2024

He said:

Since Napoli’s opened in Midvale just a month ago, we had few expectations and were eager to experience this clean-slate restaurant. We found the new restaurant among several other retail and dining establishments in Midvale’s Union Park neighborhood. Despite the strip mall location, its exterior appeared sleek, clean, and modern with black window awnings sporting the stylized Napoli’s “N”.

Inside, we found a single dining room, its flanks sectioned only by a half-height partition. The black and white color scheme appeared through a variety of textures: brick, tile, marble, and more. Several styles of light fixtures added to the variety. (Many years ago, I tried to coin the term “eclection,” but it never took off. Otherwise, I could comment about the nice eclection of design elements). The dim lighting, gentle colors, and thoughtful artwork all created an elegant atmosphere, which was greatly enhanced by the cordial, welcoming manner of the employees.

The hostess led us to a semicircular booth where our silverware and cloth napkins sat atop rectangular, black plates. These plates would serve as our appetizer plates, as well as to collect Kathy’s clam shells. I was pleased to see them, as Kathy has frequently noted her dissatisfaction with restaurants that forget to provide small plates when they deliver their appetizers. There’s also something else that I noticed about the tableware: It all had heft. Maybe it’s silly, but I think that matters. The glasses—both for water and for our customary diet sodas—were glass, shaker-pint glasses. I have a set of these at home because I love how they feel. They hold just the right amount of beverage, neither too much nor too little, and the weight of the glass just . . . feels right. At Napoli’s, the glasses, silverware, the dishes all had a substance to them that created a feeling of quality and comfort.

Anyway, we needed something to fill our appetizer plates, so we ordered the Bruschetta. I’ve become quite fond of bruschetta and the many variations available. The Napoli’s version started with a soft ciabatta bread and added cherry tomatoes, red onion, kalamata olives, and feta cheese. The olives and feta cheese provided an unexpected, though delightful, tang. The soft and chewy ciabatta was irresistible, and I quickly finished the entire plate.

Our salads came next. I briefly considered getting mine with Italian dressing, but I caved and ordered my usual Ranch dressing. Very American of me, I know. That salad did its job but didn’t particularly stand out. Our bread service featured savory rolled bread with the traditional olive oil dip. The olive oil contained a generous mixture of spices, but only a hint of balsamic vinegar. The oil itself lacked a robust body, but it was plentiful.

Throughout our meal, two different waitresses checked on us frequently, always with a smile and friendly banter. I also noticed two assistant servers standing by near the wall of the dining room. They kept a watchful vigil over all the diners and jumped to attend to any need. When I finished with my salad dish, for example, they rushed to the table to whisk it away. Nobody’s needs went unattended for more than a few seconds.

For my entrée, I ordered the Primavera. To my delight, it had plenty of vegetables: zucchini, broccoli, carrots, and red peppers, though I might have preferred them to be more thickly sliced. The rigatoni pasta captured the creamy alfredo sauce with ease for a rich and filling dish. I had only a fork, but if I had a spoon, I wouldn’t have been too shy to scoop every last drop of that pillowy sauce.

Primavera: Zucchini, squash, broccoli, carrots, and red peppers in alfredo sauce and rigatoni pasta

We reviewed the dessert menu, and I got a glimpse of a beautiful and tempting Lemoncello going to a nearby table. However, we were already quite satisfied and full from a wonderful meal.

Kathy said:

Nestled in the Union Heights shopping and dining district, Napoli’s stands out with its elegant black awnings boldly proclaiming the restaurant’s presence with contrasting white script. The sophistication does not end there. Upon entering the premises, I was greeted by layers of chic black and tan octagonal floor tiles broken up here and there with medium-stained oak floors; white walls accented with black trim; abstract artwork in turquoise, yellow, tan, and white swirls; large, framed photographs of Italian scenes; modern, white globe light fixtures; a black granite credenza slashed with white veining; tall, live potted Ficus plants; semicircular booths adorned in deep tan leather. My senses took it all in and I immediately felt relaxed and comfortable. At home. A warm, comfortable vibe.

After perusing the menu, Brian ordered the Bruschetta to start. It was very flavorful, and the feta cheese was plentiful. No skimping on the formaggio 😊. Lending to my enjoyment of our appetizer was that the bread was soft and not hard as a rock.

For my entrée, I settled on ordering the Frutti Di Mare. Originally, my instinct was to order the lasagna. I usually judge how good an Italian restaurant is by how it prepares its lasagna. Why? Because it’s a staple on the menus and is a basic dish. If the chef can get the meat sauce, spices, and noodle texture just right, then it usually bodes well for the rest of the food. It’s just my personal quirk.

However, after having a friendly chat with Joe, the manager, I decided to choose the seafood dish. Being from the East Coast and knowing all about the proper preparation of shellfish, I figured how well the chef cooked it would also be a barometer of how delicious the meals here would be.

Can I just say, “Deliziosa” and “Perfetta”?

The linguine was al dente and smothered in a creamy, buttery, tomato sauce—and not like the watered-down marinara that some restaurants serve. Sitting atop and around the pasta were very generous measures of shrimp, mussels, clams, and scallops. Yep! The chef knew what he was doing. The seafood was perfectly steamed, and it melted in my mouth. The portion of my dish was so generous that there was enough left over to enjoy later, as our friendly and attentive waitress boxed it all up for me.

Frutti Di Mare: Shrimp, mussels, clams, and scallops in marinara sauce with linguine pasta

So, if one is in the mood for a taste bud festa, wend your way over to Napoli’s and forget the outside world for a while.

Conclusion:

Napoli’s Italian Restaurant is a charming addition to the neighborhood. The steady stream of customers that kept the staff busy, even on a Tuesday night, hints at a growing popularity as the restaurant becomes better known in the area.