Matteo Ristorante Italiano

Brian said:

Matteo’s restaurant sits just a few blocks west of the heart of Salt Lake’s “9th and 9th” district. This vibrant neighborhood is rich in personality. An abundant variety of small shops and boutiques with quirky names hints at the creativity and inclusiveness of this dynamic community. Pedestrians and cyclists shared the recently reconfigured sidewalks as they endured the near-record heat, still persisting even in the mid-evening. All combined to create a welcoming vibe.

We waded through a small crowd of patrons in the small waiting room, but our reservation allowed us entry without waiting. A host led us to a small table near the far wall. As Kathy sat on the padded bench by the wall, I reviewed the array of photographs adorning the space behind her. Several collections of black-and-white photographs showed men, women, and children of a bygone generation in a variety of Mediterranean and Alpine settings. They suitably provided a romantic Italian ambiance, evoking thoughts of the “Old Country.”

The menu featured three sections: Antipasti, Primi, and Secondi. This is typical of the fancier Italian restaurants, and I’m never quite sure how to order. Many of the modest restaurants will combine a full meal into a single dish. When restaurants offer separate Primi and Secondi courses, should I order one of each? Would that be too much food? Would only one course be too little? It does seem like both courses are intended to complement one another. The Primi courses were all pasta dishes (and one Risotto dish). The Secondi dishes were all meat entrées.

I’ve found that when I don’t understand something about restaurant protocol or etiquette, the staff is usually happy to help. I asked our server what the custom was. He said some people will share a pasta dish while ordering separate entrées. That aligned with my own inclination, so that’s what we did. But first, we started with the Antipasti.

Our bread service included baguette slices as well as focaccia served with a garlicky whipped butter. The bread was soft and chewy, and the focaccia was particularly fluffy. A bowl of olives—several varieties—accompanied the bread.

We also ordered the Burrata dish. This cheese was creamy but still firm, served with grilled zucchini. The zucchini had been thinly sliced lengthwise, grilled, then rolled into spirals, but it was served cold. The confit tomatoes provided an ornamental garnish but were too few to enhance the cheese. I enjoyed the dish, but I thought it missed an opportunity to pop with additional flavor. Kathy thought it could have used additional seasoning, while I might have liked a light balsamic tang to complement it.

For our shared pasta, we ordered the Gnocchi. This was a great, flavorful dish, although it was smothered in a green sauce (zucchini cream) that wasn’t quite as attractive as it tasted. A lemony ricotta topped the gnocchi, with sprinkles of crispy pancetta and fried shallots. The irregular, imperfect gnocchi let us know that it was handmade.

I completed my meal with the Tagliata. This included potatoes that were delightfully crispy, broccolini, and a ribeye steak. A small bowl of coarse salt and one of gremolada joined the plate to provide additional seasoning, though the well-marbled steak was full of rich flavor on its own.

Throughout our meal, we enjoyed impeccable service. Assistant servers were always around to quickly refill glasses or to remove empty dishes. Between courses, our server would give us updates to let us know when to expect our next dishes. With great service, food, and atmosphere, we enjoyed a great evening.

Kathy said:

From the sleek, streamlined exterior architecture to the chic, sophisticated interior, my expectations for Matteo’s were pretty high.

I was not disappointed.

Inside, we found a full restaurant with bustling waitstaff and patrons engaged in happy, lively conversation. Once we were seated, I took stock of our surroundings: a square-shaped dining room with a modest bar on one side, and a large, black metal rack across the way that held many wine glasses. Posters of Italian racecars, and of pasta wrapped around a silver fork, adorned one of the walls that was built from cinder blocks painted a creamy light gray. The other walls sported a mirror and black-and-white photos depicting scenes of everyday Italian life.

The floors were charcoal gray concrete, the ceilings crafted from light-colored wooden beams, the dark wooden chairs were adorned with charcoal gray leather upholstery. The curved booths that took center stage in the middle of the dining room were clad in burnt-orange leather. I really appreciated that pop of color for contrast from the various shades of gray and black. The restaurant’s theme carried through to the outdoor patio, but the chairs out there were painted a cheerful yellow. 😀

Anyway, the décor and positive vibe were not solely responsible for my being impressed with Matteo’s. Not only was the service impeccable, but the food was outstandingly delicious. Our bread service of focaccia and baguette slices was lovely, as it was accompanied by tasty, garlicky whipped butter and a small bowl of various olives in oil. The only thing that could have improved the bread basket would have been a nuttier-tasting oil, since the one that was offered was too bitter for my liking.

The Burrata was very nice, too, but could have been enhanced by a more distinctive pop of flavor. As Brian suggested, maybe a touch of balsamic vinegar or dressing would have been perfect. Italian cuisine should never be too heavy-handed with spices, but it should have a balance of seasoning.

Now to my entrée: The Cioppino I ordered was amazingly good. The tomato-based seafood stew was perfectly creamy and flavorful. It contained generous amounts of salmon, clams, and mussels, along with bits of lobster and shrimp. There is nothing about it that I would change—except to have a stomach roomy enough to order another bowl full! 😋

One last thing: we noticed that there was no background music playing. If there had been, hearing Billy Joel crooning lyrics from his song “Scenes from an Italian Restaurant” would have been wholly appropriate, capping off my dining experience. 😉

Conclusion:

Whether you’re looking for a romantic evening out or a sophisticated meal with friends, Matteo’s is sure to leave a lasting impression.