Manoli’s

He said:

As we drove to Manoli’s, Kathy told me that it is a “Small Plates” restaurant. While we understood the basic premise of that, we weren’t sure how we were supposed to turn that into a meal. We needn’t have worried. Our waiter would explain that two small plates were essentially comparable to a regular entrée order, but they would be served “family style” to share.

When we arrived, we discovered a few entrée options on the menu, but only a few. They definitely focused on the smaller plates. In fact, they only offered three full-plate options. One featured fish, another was vegetarian, and the only other option was a lamb/beef burger. None of those appealed to us, so we ordered from the small plate offerings.

I like Greek food, but most of what I find is Greek fast food, or street food. As with American cuisine, there is a big difference between fast food and the more sophisticated fare. I enjoy both, but Manoli’s gave me an opportunity to explore some incredible flavors and ingredients that I don’t often encounter.

We began with the Saganaki. I didn’t realize until it arrived that I was already familiar with this dish. It consisted of kefalograviera cheese in a sizzling-hot skillet. Often, Saganaki is lit on fire at the table and then all the guests shout “Opa!” This one was served without the flambé, so we didn’t shout anything. Nonetheless, it was terrific, the best part of our meal. The Saganaki was served with toasted flatbread, called pinsa, and a charred lemon half that was nearly too hot to handle. I think the cheese already had some lemon juice in it, though, which gave it a delightful zing. Atop the cheese sat a serving of roasted corn and peppers. I loved how many flavors combined in this dish, all in perfect balance.

Next, we enjoyed an order of Dolmades. Five rolls of grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice sat atop a dollop of thick, fluffy, house-made Greek yogurt. Kathy seemed to like it and wondered what gave the rice its flavor. I consulted the menu and then declared, “Herbs. It’s herbs that give it that flavor.” So, there you have it, folks. I’m always happy to pull back the curtain a bit and provide helpful insights like this.

From there, we ventured toward the meaty small plates, starting with the Paidakia, or grilled lamb riblets with caper chimichurri. That’s right, chimichurri. Usually considered an Argentinian condiment, it nonetheless found its way into this Greek dish. I was glad it did, as it added a nice tanginess to the riblets. Riblets don’t have a lot of meat on them, especially lamb riblets, but the serving included more than enough to satisfy us.

Our final small plate was the Souvlaki. The skewer had been removed, leaving tender morsels of Iberian pork. The serving was small, but what really caught my attention was the fideo pie. I hadn’t heard of fideo before. It’s a type of pasta. Fideo noodles are long and golden, but thin like vermicelli. The fideo pie consisted of the noodles formed into a saucer—like a hockey puck—and then deep fried. This gave it a crispy exterior with a soft, creamy interior. It reminded me of a potato croquette in appearance, texture, and even flavor. I loved it.

With our appetites satisfied, we could have quit right then, especially as the dessert menu didn’t appeal to us. But then, the waiter said something about a special dessert featuring strawberry sorbet and pink peppercorns. I couldn’t leave without trying that. Who doesn’t like peppercorns with their sorbet? Actually, I had once had ice cream with a peppercorn marinade, which I loved¹. I ordered the dessert, but unfortunately, I didn’t pick up any hint of peppercorns. Kathy had only two bites, but she says she bit into something spicy. Maybe she found the lone peppercorn. While I wished for a more apparent peppercorn presence, I still enjoyed the sorbet. It was creamy rather than icy, with a great strawberry flavor.

She said:

Manoli’s was nothing like I’d expected. It was so much better. From its sleek cream-colored stucco and black-framed windows to its navy and silver-speckled vinyl floor, it screamed urban chic. From the blonde wood tables, cream modular chairs, the light walnut-stained wood trim, and the boxy light fixtures, the restaurant looked very sophisticated and modern.

With our 5:00 PM reservation, Brian and I were the only patrons in the restaurant, so the waiter was very attentive, and was helpful in getting us oriented to the menu. Plus, we didn’t have to wait very long for our food to be served. Of course, by the time we finished and left, the restaurant was filled nearly to capacity.

Our first two dishes were the Saganaki and the Dolmades. The first was especially good and flavorful. The lemon and the grilled corn really stood out and made my tastebuds stand at attention. As for the latter, the grape leaves were tender and the filling burst with a medley of tasty herbs. The one perplexing thing about it was how did the chef create yogurt that was so light and fluffy, almost like whipped ricotta?

The other two dishes we’d ordered were the Paidakia (lamb riblets) and the Souvlaki (grilled Iberian pork). The lamb was delicious because the meat was moist, and the chimichurri was very zesty and citrusy. As for the pork, it was tender and pretty wonderful with the fideo pie and tomato coriander salsa. The only thing I wasn’t particularly fond of was the frisé. It was just a tad too bitter for my liking.

Oh, and about the housemade strawberry sorbet: it was creamy, smooth, yummy, and sweet. However, I only enjoyed a couple of spoons full because I bit into an “invisible” peppercorn that caused my mouth to burn. I was tempted to order myself the Greek donuts, but decided to pass because I was happily stuffed.

Conclusion:

Enjoy the many flavors of quality Greek cuisine at Manoli’s.